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Haider Ackermann named at Berluti, a new challenge

 

The talented French creator of adoption, whose eponymous label presents since 2013 male collections, has just been named with the artistic director of the house Berluti, property of group LVMH.

Haider Ackermann par Jean-Baptiste Mondino.

 

Like nobody else, Haider has the gift to combine rich, deep shades with bursts of shimmer. In his collections the light dances a pas de deux across his fabrics: velvet, silk and lurex are the loyal allies of the designer who wields his palette like a painter. This sense of colour is certainly one of the reasons that convinced the house of Berluti, known for their colourful shoes with a sophisticated shine, to employ the designer. 

 

Inspired and luminescent, Haider Ackermann nourishes his intense and secretive imagination, marked by a fertile duality. Strength and fragility, the masculine and the feminine, shadows and light, the structured and the nebulous all come together to formulate his own very personal approach. Sensual and magnetic, the body of Haider Ackermann houses the soul of a poet with leanings to a darker romanticism. Like a geological or metaphysical experiment, his is a simultaneous vision of surface and depth inviting in his fashion and even his very person. His fashion: an orgy of clever draping enveloping and veiling the body to protect it, without contradicting it, suggesting its lines without showing it. His person: the archetypal inspired designer who pursues season after season, an endlessly renewed expression of his personal obsessions. 

 

Born in Columbia, Haider grew up in Africa between Ethiopia and Chad, before his family (a French couple who adopted him) settled in Holland. The influence of travel and particularly African clothing is a vital element in his collections abounding with drapes and reams of sensual fabrics outlining the incredibly poetic silhouettes of his perpetually wandering nomads. 

 

It was at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, just like Dries Van Noten, Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester, that Haider formed his notion of fashion. Two years after the launch of his eponymous label in 2003 he joined the BVBA 32 group led by the great Antwerpian figure Anne Chapelle who also produced and distributed the work of Ann Demeulemeester. 

 

He recently told us: “Clothing is but an envelope of the soul and is just a part of the atmosphere that I want to translate through my runway shows. Every season, at the beginning of my work, there’s my choice of music, hair and make-up. A runway show can speak about how in love I am. Or of the solitude after a break-up. If I play Recitation W/N.L (A Thousand Kisses Deep) by Leonard Cohen, it’s because I’m addressing a message to someone in the room, who will know so. It’s also a way of escaping from myself. I reveal myself but from that vulnerability comes strength. I love this duality between force and fragility.” 

 

Listen to Haider Ackermann’s playlist here. 

 

By Delphine Roche

 

Michael Kors Spring-Summer 2019 fashion show
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Michael Kors Spring-Summer 2019 fashion show

Fashion Week Bright colors, floral and tropical prints, belts and necklaces, Michael Kors brings the beach spirit on his man and woman spring-summer 2019 fashion show.   Bright colors, floral and tropical prints, belts and necklaces, Michael Kors brings the beach spirit on his man and woman spring-summer 2019 fashion show.  

Prada relaunches its sportswear line with a new name, Linea Rossa
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Prada relaunches its sportswear line with a new name, Linea Rossa

Fashion At the fall-winter 2018-2019 runway shows, Prada announced the relaunch of its sportswear line under the new name of Linea Rossa. A collection of designs that align technical innovation with avant-garde aesthetics. At the fall-winter 2018-2019 runway shows, Prada announced the relaunch of its sportswear line under the new name of Linea Rossa. A collection of designs that align technical innovation with avant-garde aesthetics.