65

Perfumer Frederic Malle says all about his new creation Cologne Indélébile.

 

Exclusive interview of French master perfumer Frédéric Malle by Laurence Hovart on the occasion of the launch of his new creation, Cologne Indélébile. Illustration by François Berthoud.

A good perfume, like a good novel, is an artwork unto itself. In 2000, Frédéric Malle decided to pay homage to today’s great noses by founding an olfactive “publishing house.” Fifteen years later, 22 new perfumes have been born, of which the most recent is Cologne Indélébile. Numéro met up with him.​

Illustration by François Berthoud

“I’ve always fantasized over girls. They each have their own smell. In my bestiary, there are all sorts of French girls and American girls, whence the names of my perfumes in either language. Behind each one, there’s always the idea of a woman and a sensual relationship,” explains Frédéric Malle. If, back in 2008, he confessed to Numéro that, “As a young man I was hopelessly in love with girls… I wasn’t at all attractive, so I had absolutely no success with them,” today he can luxuriate in his revenge, since women all over the world have sniffed his fragrances or, better still, worn his name on their necks.

 

Numéro: All great perfumes evoke lust. It would seem that each of your bestsellers has a strong and bold sexual side?

 

Frédéric Malle: Ours is the oldest craft in the world. The big successes in the history of perfume all had a strong erotic charge, including the most falsely clean. Dior’s Eau Sauvage, for example, is a leather composition based around an overdose of patchouli and cumin, which aren’t there for nothing. Among our bestsellers (Portrait of a Lady, Musc Ravageur, Carnal Flower…), that particular message is very clear.

 

Your latest creation, Cologne Indélébile, plays on a note of false innocence…

 

Yes indeed. Its very particular musky base is the same as that of Géranium pour Monsieur and of Portrait of a Lady, also by Dominique Ropion, but we worked on it to exaggerate its ambivalence. If Portrait tends towards the dark side of patchouli, with rose and amber notes, Cologne Indélébile is just simply a delicious and sensual lover, with neroli and white orange blossom. What’s interesting is that white musks are associated with babies and cleanliness, because washing powder and body-care products use them. And yet, inspired by animal musk, they’re an aphrodisiac in the perfumer’s palette. When you smell them, your brain thinks of purity and innocence while your unconscious is yelling “sex”!

 

Read the full article in issue 163 of Numéro, currently available at newsstands and on the iPad.

→ Subscribe to Numéro

→ Subscribe to the Numéro iPad application

 

By Laurence Hovart

 

Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, 37, rue de Grenelle, Paris 7th. www.fredericmalle.com.

 

 

 

 

 

What does Rihanna have in store for us with Fenty Beauty?
777

What does Rihanna have in store for us with Fenty Beauty?

Beauty Focusing on the eyes with her make-up brand, the modern-day heroine draws inspiration from the shimmering colours of the Sahara and Morocco.    Focusing on the eyes with her make-up brand, the modern-day heroine draws inspiration from the shimmering colours of the Sahara and Morocco.   

What does a L'Oréal Paris and Balmain collaboration look like?
101

What does a L'Oréal Paris and Balmain collaboration look like?

Beauty Astonishing shades, a stunning cast, fabulous images and a powerful message, L'Oréal Paris and Balmain release the first images of their collaboration before the official launch on September 1st 2017. Astonishing shades, a stunning cast, fabulous images and a powerful message, L'Oréal Paris and Balmain release the first images of their collaboration before the official launch on September 1st 2017.

Irresistible, the re-edition of Comme des Garçons perfume
592

Irresistible, the re-edition of Comme des Garçons perfume

Beauty The ultra-creative house of fashion and perfume is relaunching 10 of its perfumes that had become impossible to find and have created a special collection for the occasion. The ultra-creative house of fashion and perfume is relaunching 10 of its perfumes that had become impossible to find and have created a special collection for the occasion.

Elle Fanning, new muse at L’Oréal Paris
888

Elle Fanning, new muse at L’Oréal Paris

Beauty Aged 19, Elle Fanning is now part of the very select L’Oréal Paris family. Starring in Sofia Coppola’s new movie, The Beguiled to be shown at the 70thCannes Film Festival, the American actress will be climbing those red carpeted steps more than once this year. Aged 19, Elle Fanning is now part of the very select L’Oréal Paris family. Starring in Sofia Coppola’s new movie, The Beguiled to be shown at the 70thCannes Film Festival, the American actress will be climbing those red carpeted steps more than once this year.

Kristen Stewart, muse for Chanel’s new Gabrielle perfume
123

Kristen Stewart, muse for Chanel’s new Gabrielle perfume

Beauty Since 2013, the American actress Kristen Stewart has been lending her anti-conformist image to the house of Chanel. Today the legendary maison on the rue Cambon has announced that she will be the face of its new perfume, Gabrielle. Since 2013, the American actress Kristen Stewart has been lending her anti-conformist image to the house of Chanel. Today the legendary maison on the rue Cambon has announced that she will be the face of its new perfume, Gabrielle.