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Meet Antonin Tron, the designer at Atlein

 

With the launch of his label Atlein, French designer Antonin Tron was one of the revelations at the last Paris Fashion Week. Numéro met up with this promising young creator.

Antonin Tron by Damian Noszkowicz

 

Simple knitted tops worn with gored skater skirts, or smart dresses with elaborate constructions that attractively outline the body… With his first collection under the brand name AtleinAntonin Tron astonished with his capacity to invent an entire wardrobe, for both day and night, using just one material: jersey, in all its versatility.

Numéro: What was your background before launching your own brand?

Antonin Tron: I graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. I then worked on the men's collections at Louis Vuitton before moving to womenswear at Givenchy and then Balenciaga alongside Nicolas Ghesquière. Today I'm still working as a freelancer at Balenciaga and that's how I'm financing my own brand. For years I've been working on relations with a jersey maker in France. I had the idea of launching my own label in partnership with this family-run factory which means that all the pieces are Made in France.

But why just jersey?

It's a fabric I really like because it allows you to create such comfortable pieces that are easy to wear and easy to live with. I worked with jersey a lot when I was at Givenchy and then Balenciaga. The trend for body-con also translates my really sporty side: I surf a lot and technical clothes are very much a part of my reality. I wanted cuts and details that relate to sport. For example my ribbed tops could also be worn underneath a crop top.

Stretch jersey can sometimes hang shapelessly, but yours clearly outlines the silhouette.

Before I started, I really studied the work of Jean Muir, a designer famous for her work with jersey in the 1960s, because I wanted a structured diaphanousness that flattered the silhouette. I see the garment as an object, a bit like a furniture designer, more than thinking in terms of looks. So for my first collection I preferred to focus on a single material I could really get the most out of, and jersey can come in cotton, viscose and silk. I will gradually introduce other lines of products as I carry on constructing my house.  

 

Atlein is available at Net-a-Porter among other places.

 

By Delphine Roche

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