08 December

Chanel’s Métiers d’art: a guided tour around the Lemarié ateliers


As the Chanel Métiers d’Art runway show celebrates the city of Hamburg, Numéro visits the plumassier atelier of Lemarié, one of the houses with an exceptional savoir-faire that Chanel pays tribute to with this glittering event.

Photos : Mehdi Mendas, Text : Léa Zetlaoui

  • Feather flowers made entirely by hand in the Lemarié atelier.
  • Feather specialists, making flowers and complex fabrics (composed of different fabrics and ornaments), the house of Lemarié, founded in 1880, take the meaning of the expression “hand-made” to its absolute paroxysm.

    Although part of the house of Chanel since 1996, Lemarié collaborates with numerous other fashion houses and was responsible for the spectacular feather confections created for the house of Dior during the Raf Simons era.


    Renowned around the world for the finesse and precision of their creations, they are perhaps best known for their production of every single Chanel camellia, the iconic flower of the rue Cambon, having collaborated with Gabrielle since the start of the 1960s. Composed of exactly 16 petals, the camellias must all be identical: the precision of the cut, the embossing and the assembly is therefore essential.

Feathers made from leather, cut, shaped, embossed and assembled by hand.

The Lemarié archives, where recent creations for various houses are displayed.

The feathers, once dyed and cut, are appliqued by hand with millimetric precision.

Feathered hem destined for a dress from the Chanel Métiers d'Art Hamburg collection.


Coat belonging to the Lemarié archives, made entirely from feathers.

Mural in leather flowers made by the Lemarié ateliers.

Embossing iron that gives shape and texture to the petals of the camellia flowers.

Camellias made by Lemarié for Chanel. Each one is composed of 16 petals, they are all made in the house ateliers.

Fabric from the Chanel spring-summer 2014 collection for the petals of a camellia.

Flowers made by Lemarié.