Jean Paul Gaultier couture show fall-winter 2015/1016
Numéro revisits Jean Paul Gaultier fall-winter 2015/2016 and it's folkloric set.
A Jean Paul Gaultier show is never strictly speaking just a show: it’s a celebration. The winding down of the maison’s ready-to-wear wing would, mathematically, seem to compute to redoubled levels of humour and joy in the puckish designer’s couture outings. And in Anna Cleveland, daughter to the wickedly funny muse of Antonio Lopez, Andy Warhol and all, he would appear to have found the perfect accomplice, in addition to opener and closer for the show. A show itself conceived in honour of Brittany, complete with bagpipe orchestra of unpronounceable monikor (Bagad Pariz Ti Ar Vretoned).
In a year to be remembered for the Grand Palais’ enormous Jean Paul Gaultier retrospective, Brittany, the folkloric theme par excellence, served above all as pretext for flooding the catwalk with sailor jerseys, reminding us that this is Paris, not Plouhinec, and that Jean Paul Gaultier is in his element here. The blue stripes on white appeared in humorous head-to-toe outfits, as with the passage entitled “Chou Chen Chic”: a dress in pleated, ruffled tulle and silk, over long matching socks. The pieces ingeniously undercut the marine cannon: peacoats, sailor pants or the admiral’s jacket. The skirts took circular forms (in broadcloth and velvet, in taffetas…): solar apostrophes to the joie de vivre of those 100% butter galettes (Gaultier’s taste for pudding is well documented).
Our faithful, our masterful Jean Paul did indeed pull out all the stops : tailoring techniques on a jacket made from folded alpaca, sublime velvet sheaths, a structured lamé jacquard dress… The combusting sun of a spectacular apron-dress, encased in black velvet patterning, preceded the triumphant bride’s (Anna Cleveland) patchwork of guipure lace and hide, for a finale as subtle as it was wild.
By Delphine Roche