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Nina Ricci spring-summer 2016 show

 

For his second show Guillaume Henry pushed his point a little further, fully assuming a soft sensuality whilst taking on the transparent blouse worn without lingerie and an incendiary red.

 

Guillaume Henry’s first collection at Nina Ricci laid the foundations for his singularly poetic approach to femininity. Saturday night, for his second show, the talented artistic director further made his point, fully assuming a soft sensuality whilst taking on the transparent blouse worn without lingerie and an incendiary red. Opulently lacquered, almost liquid, silks couple up with patent ostrich leather that resembles vinyl.

 

But as with everything about Guillaume Henry it’s a subtly balanced affair with controlled incongruence. Contrasting with the sensuality of materials, the shapes remain straight, often loose or oversized. The skirts and trousers are worn low on the hips. Apron dresses cultivate an ambiguity and the expertise of the house ateliers at handling feathers and sequins manifested over three-armhole dresses. Here the artistic director affirmed his very real talent as a colourist with a palette of deep and subtle shades, effortlessly skimming from slate green to lavender and cherry red. Mission accomplished for Guillaume Henry, and with such grace.

 

By Delphine Roche