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Vetements’ Couture lesson: the fall 2016 runway

 

​The very trendy Parisian brand Vetements presented this Sunday 3rd its SS17 collection, a collaboration with Levis, Reebok, Canada Goose, Dr. Martens, and Juicy Couture... A small revolution.

 

What more can you do when in just a few short seasons you’ve got the squeamish American press into a dingy gay backroom, been on the cover of T Magazine, and upset the cannons of an entire industry who, since the arrival of Vetements, only want to see “real” or barely primed looks? On Monday July 4th Demna Gvasalia, now the official figurehead of the transgressive label, dropped another bombshell... in Haute Couture week. In the middle of the brief period of time devoted to salon-bound satin swathed creatures, Vetements invited the public to a runway show in the heart of a Parisian department store. Once through the jostling crowd at the entrance which was worthy of a rock concert (many fans of the label had tried to join the party) the fashion editors seated among the clothing rails on the first floor witnessed a demonstration that was pretty clever. The now regular gimmicks at Vetements, ultra-long sleeves and other over-sized down jackets, which are sure to please the kids, were joined by some serious style propositions. 


 

Elaborating on the principles of oversizing and disproportion, their established trademarks, Vetements had the girls walking nude beneath long chiffon dresses stuffed into GMO-nourished thigh boots, so high they were more like waist-high waders with the turned-over tops (in a musketeer style cuff) knocking the models’ thighs. These incredible pieces in satin were crafted by a specialist in the field, none other than Manolo Blanhik. The Spanish shoemaker was one of a handful of brands who took part in Vetements’ latest daring and innovative concept: a collection entirely based on co-branding. Each in their speciality, Brioni, Perfecto, Schott, Levis, Comme des Garçons Shirt, Reebok, Canada Goose, Dr. Martens, and Juicy Couture had all agreed to make pieces for the Gvasalia brother’s label as a sort shock treatment and twisted tribute. An intelligently irreverent approach to appropriation that gives a niche brand diversion strategies of logos and direct quotes from established streetwear brands – a practice the fashion public has yet to fully grasp. Between genius and cynicism, Vetements newest proposal certainly stoked the fires of debate if nothing else.  

 

By Delphine Roche 

Photos by Mehdi Mendas

 

Check out our encounter with Demna Gvasalia.

Check out Vetements fall-winter 2016-2017 runway show.​