Alexandre Vauthier’s fine jewellery for Mellerio dits Meller
During haute-couture week, Alexandre Vauthier unveiled an ensemble of fine jewellery that was produced in partnership with Mellerio dits Meller. He talked to Numéro about the origins of this capsule collection.
Numéro: How did this collection with jeweller Mellerio dits Meller come about?
Alexandre Vauthier: I met the managing director of Mellerio dits Meller who was with Cartier and Harry Winston before that. Then everything happened very quickly. My idea was to create jewellery that wasn’t too ornamental, that would make you want to wear it. I designed the whole collection in 48 hours. I wanted to get back to the intimate aspect of jewellery, the bit that’s not about social appearance. I also wanted to reconnect with the feminine side of precious stones: that’s why the pieces are long and mobile, following the forms of the neck and the cleavage. It’s the idea of a drop of perfume that gently runs down the skin.
In your haute-couture collections, your jewellery designs, which are made by Goossens, are very present. Is this new collection of fine jewellery an extension of your creative process or a completely separate project?
This collection is part of my project to design a complete feminine wardrobe, which is why I recently launched my own line of shoes. Everything to do with femininity has as much importance for me as the clothes. At one point I was artistic director at La Perla, which allowed me to try my hand at lingerie. But fine jewellery is the height of luxury. Mellerio dits Meller is the oldest jewellery house in the Place Vendôme, and is still in family hands. They were jewellers to the queen. Their heritage and their archives are magnificent. I totally fell in love with Mellerio dits Meller, and we embarked on this partnership.
Which were the first pieces?
It was the materials that guided me, as is often the case with clothing collections.
In this particular case, the materials you chose were diamonds and emeralds.
I was shown entire tables covered in superb emeralds of 3 to 8 carats. It was dazzling. I learned how to gauge the luminosity of stones by working with the craftsmen and gemmologists at Mellerio dits Meller. I work on my haute-couture collections with highly skilled craftsmen, particularly feather workers and embroiderers who I try to showcase each season, but these were crafts I didn’t know. Entering the world of fine jewellery, I discovered new expertise.
In this collection, your initial “V” is highlighted in a very graphic way.
When I designed the pieces, these Vs just came naturally. But once they’ve been assembled, the V-shaped links in the ear pendant and the bracelet become Ms, for Mellerio dits Meller. I particularly wanted to work on mobility and transversality: the pendant can become an earring. It’s an idea that came to me when I saw how my haute-couture clients wear my clothes in their daily lives, for example a beautiful haute-couture jacket worn with simple jeans. That’s how women live today, whatever their social origins.
Intevriew by Delphine Roche