4

And Lindbergh… created woman

 

Galery of portraits

It’s been 30 years now that photographer Peter Lindbergh has been capturing the fragile, intimate beauty of the world’s top models and greatest actresses. While his unretouched black-and-white images were central to the fashion ethos of the 90s, the maestro has since gone beyond the industry’s confines, building up a timeless oeuvre of sincere and truthful portraits that are as dramatic as they are moving. Mixing iconic images with lesser-known shots, an exhibition at Paris’s Gagosian Gallery highlights Lindbergh’s narrative dimension.

 

Cindy Crawford, Tatjana Patitz, Helena Christensen, Linda Evangelista, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Karen Mulder, Stephanie Seymour, Brooklyn, New York, USA, 1991.

In the middle of Paris fashion week, Natalia Vodianova and Jeremy Scott, as well as the celebrated models Joan Smalls and Karlie Kloss, could all be seen squeezing through the crowds thronging to the Gagosian Gallery. For fashion pros, the opening of Peter Lindbergh’s new exhibition was not to be missed. Even Canadian film director Xavier Dolan made the trip. When introduced to the illustrious photographer being fêted that night, Dolan’s fiery temperament melted into a shyness previously unseen. His usual arrogance wiped away, he stood paralyzed like a hypersensitive kid in front of his idol. He was almost touching. But besides its anecdotal value, Dolan’s admiring silence highlights the exceptional aura that surrounds Peter Lindbergh. Through fashion, and yet somehow in spite of it, the German photographer has established himself as a portraitist who is in love with women and with the truth of being. “I don’t know how to cheat, so I take photographs in the same way I see life,” he later confides in our interview. “After this conversation I will certainly remember your gaze, but not your sweater. In the same way, I want the viewer to feel the person when looking at my images.”

 

True to his vision, at the end of the 1980s Lindbergh responded to a commission from American Vogue by choosing virtually unknown models whose fresh naturalness contrasted with the ultra-sophistication then in fashion among their colleagues. Hair blowing in the wind, dressed in simple white shirts, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista and Tatjana Patitz literally glow in these now legendary shots, their pure beauty devoid of any artifice. “My idea wasn’t to revolutionize the image of women. I just showed girls like those I’d liked at art school, wearing sneakers and jeans, and not with a crocodile-skin handbag worth $10,000.”

Lindbergh brings to light the strength of his models through their most intimate beauty, seeking their uniqueness in even their skin imperfections, which he refuses to erase or smooth out to satisfy the demands of an age plagued by the imperatives of advertising perfection.

 

Peter Lindbergh, à la Galerie Gagosian de Paris, jusqu’au 22 novembre.

www.gagosian.com.

At Arles, Ann Ray plunges us into the intimate world of Alexander McQueen
123

At Arles, Ann Ray plunges us into the intimate world of Alexander McQueen

Photography At this year’s Rencontres d'Arles, French photographer Ann Ray takes us on an intimate journey into the world of one of fashion’s most iconic designers. A humble and touching exhibition shows Alexander McQueen in a new light. At this year’s Rencontres d'Arles, French photographer Ann Ray takes us on an intimate journey into the world of one of fashion’s most iconic designers. A humble and touching exhibition shows Alexander McQueen in a new light.

Carlo Mollino’s erotic Polaroids inspire Jeremy Scott for Moschino
878

Carlo Mollino’s erotic Polaroids inspire Jeremy Scott for Moschino

Photography It was only when he died that Carlo Mollino’s erotic Polaroids came to light at his villa in Turin. Countless images of half-naked anonymous women caught in lascivious poses. For his sublime fall-winter 2018/19 pre-collection, Jeremy Scott drew inspiration from these saucy pictures taken in the Italian architect, designer and photographer’s spare time. It was only when he died that Carlo Mollino’s erotic Polaroids came to light at his villa in Turin. Countless images of half-naked anonymous women caught in lascivious poses. For his sublime fall-winter 2018/19 pre-collection, Jeremy Scott drew inspiration from these saucy pictures taken in the Italian architect, designer and photographer’s spare time.

Robert Frank : The birth of a legend
876

Robert Frank : The birth of a legend

Photography Robert Frank’s celebrated portrait of his adopted homeland, the americans, turns 60 this year. To mark the book’s anniversary, les Rencontres d’Arles are organizing a major exhibition tracing Frank’s early career. Numéro art looks back at the photographer’s beginnings up to publication of the book that made his reputation, accompanying them with rare contact sheets from the cult volume. Robert Frank’s celebrated portrait of his adopted homeland, the americans, turns 60 this year. To mark the book’s anniversary, les Rencontres d’Arles are organizing a major exhibition tracing Frank’s early career. Numéro art looks back at the photographer’s beginnings up to publication of the book that made his reputation, accompanying them with rare contact sheets from the cult volume.

The exclusive fashion story of Miles Aldridge and Harland Miller for Numéro art
967

The exclusive fashion story of Miles Aldridge and Harland Miller for Numéro art

Photography To end the year on a high note, Numéro Art invited the renowed photographer Miles Alridge to reinterpret the work of artist Harland Miller. Then young phenomenon, who is close to Tracey Emin and Jarvis Cocker, became famous in the noughties for his large-format paintings inspired by paperback covers, an oeuvre of powerful, corrsive irony. To end the year on a high note, Numéro Art invited the renowed photographer Miles Alridge to reinterpret the work of artist Harland Miller. Then young phenomenon, who is close to Tracey Emin and Jarvis Cocker, became famous in the noughties for his large-format paintings inspired by paperback covers, an oeuvre of powerful, corrsive irony.

The Barbican Gallery celebrates counter-culture
978

The Barbican Gallery celebrates counter-culture

Photography From London Teddy Boys to transgender prostitutes in Chili, the Barbican Art Gallery in London is honouring counter-cultures from the 1950s to the present day in an exhibition entitled Another Kind of Life: Photography on the Margins, from February 28th to May 27th. From London Teddy Boys to transgender prostitutes in Chili, the Barbican Art Gallery in London is honouring counter-cultures from the 1950s to the present day in an exhibition entitled Another Kind of Life: Photography on the Margins, from February 28th to May 27th.

“Shadows on the Wall”: Peter Lindbergh captures today’s great actresses
3342

“Shadows on the Wall”: Peter Lindbergh captures today’s great actresses

Photography Nicole Kidman, Penelope Cruz, Julianne Moore and Uma Thurman… Peter Lindbergh presents a previously unseen selection of images from the shooting of the 2016/17 Pirelli calendar. “Shadows on the Wall” immerses us in a primitive and authentic beauty. Nicole Kidman, Penelope Cruz, Julianne Moore and Uma Thurman… Peter Lindbergh presents a previously unseen selection of images from the shooting of the 2016/17 Pirelli calendar. “Shadows on the Wall” immerses us in a primitive and authentic beauty.