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Gosha Rubchinskiy, Cédric Jacquemyn and Craig Green… A portrait of three designers.

 

Numéro profiles three menswear designers whose highly original clothing expresses a strong individual identity.

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Numéro profiles three menswear designers whose highly original clothing expresses a strong individual identity.

 

Gosha Rubchinskiy

 

Young Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy produces offbeat sportswear inspired by Moscow’s youth lifestyle, in which he mixes post-Soviet cultural heritage with Western skate culture. His silhouettes reappropriate 90s streetwear codes, in particular the cult of the logo, which he sometimes uses as an all-over pattern. Printed in Cyrillic type, his name has become recognized across the globe on graphic garments combining sophisticated cuts and fabrics.

 

Ever since his first collection, Rubchinskiy has stood out through his brilliant sense of styling: directly inspired by Moscow’s street-life, he celebrates the diversity of its characters right down to the casting of his runway shows. Moreover it’s an approach he’s also taken to St. Petersburg, where he spent a summer photographing the daily lives of young Russians, publishing the results in a volume entitled Transfiguration

 

 

Cédric Jacquemyn

 

A graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, Cédric Jacquemyn produces Romantic menswear of ethnic inspiration. His most recent collection is a return to the origins of clothing and its utilitarian function. Directly inspired by initiation rites in New Guinea, these figurative and printed garments bring to their graphic silhouettes a protective look. Some of them also appear at once dark and erotic, such as the pieces in black leather that expose areas of male flesh.

 

This ambivalence between two radically different positions is transcended in the designer’s poetic universe. Jacquemyn’s modernity lies in his ability to highlight male vulnerability in long, sombre, architectural silhouettes.

 

 

Craig Green

 

A finalist in the prestigious LVMH prize, British designer Craig Green this year confirmed his status as a rising star of men’s ready-to-wear. Onto a foundation that mixes work clothing, a martial-arts aesthetic and a reserved manner inspired by uniforms, Green builds ingenious superimpositions of garments in oversize dimensions.

 

An emblematic piece that he reinterprets from season to season, the fluid cotton kimono has gone through various iterations, including a white summer version worn by FKA Twigs during her unforgettable concert at the Coachella Festival in April. Green has also been consecrated by New York’s Metropolitan Museum, which is currently showing a selection of his garments in the exhibition China: Through the Looking Glass.

 

 

By Delphine Roche and Rafaelle Emery 

 

Autoportrait by Gosha Rubchinskiy.

Portrait of Cédric Jacquemyn by Yves de Brabander.

Portrait of Craig Green by Lucy Carr-Ellison.

Look ok Gosha Rubchinskiy, fall-winter 2015-2016.

Look of Cédric Jacquemyn, fall-winter 2015-2016.

Look of Craig Green, fall-winter 2015-2016.

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