455

Haider Ackermann named at Berluti, a new challenge

 

The talented French creator of adoption, whose eponymous label presents since 2013 male collections, has just been named with the artistic director of the house Berluti, property of group LVMH.

Haider Ackermann par Jean-Baptiste Mondino.

 

Like nobody else, Haider has the gift to combine rich, deep shades with bursts of shimmer. In his collections the light dances a pas de deux across his fabrics: velvet, silk and lurex are the loyal allies of the designer who wields his palette like a painter. This sense of colour is certainly one of the reasons that convinced the house of Berluti, known for their colourful shoes with a sophisticated shine, to employ the designer. 

 

Inspired and luminescent, Haider Ackermann nourishes his intense and secretive imagination, marked by a fertile duality. Strength and fragility, the masculine and the feminine, shadows and light, the structured and the nebulous all come together to formulate his own very personal approach. Sensual and magnetic, the body of Haider Ackermann houses the soul of a poet with leanings to a darker romanticism. Like a geological or metaphysical experiment, his is a simultaneous vision of surface and depth inviting in his fashion and even his very person. His fashion: an orgy of clever draping enveloping and veiling the body to protect it, without contradicting it, suggesting its lines without showing it. His person: the archetypal inspired designer who pursues season after season, an endlessly renewed expression of his personal obsessions. 

 

Born in Columbia, Haider grew up in Africa between Ethiopia and Chad, before his family (a French couple who adopted him) settled in Holland. The influence of travel and particularly African clothing is a vital element in his collections abounding with drapes and reams of sensual fabrics outlining the incredibly poetic silhouettes of his perpetually wandering nomads. 

 

It was at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, just like Dries Van Noten, Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester, that Haider formed his notion of fashion. Two years after the launch of his eponymous label in 2003 he joined the BVBA 32 group led by the great Antwerpian figure Anne Chapelle who also produced and distributed the work of Ann Demeulemeester. 

 

He recently told us: “Clothing is but an envelope of the soul and is just a part of the atmosphere that I want to translate through my runway shows. Every season, at the beginning of my work, there’s my choice of music, hair and make-up. A runway show can speak about how in love I am. Or of the solitude after a break-up. If I play Recitation W/N.L (A Thousand Kisses Deep) by Leonard Cohen, it’s because I’m addressing a message to someone in the room, who will know so. It’s also a way of escaping from myself. I reveal myself but from that vulnerability comes strength. I love this duality between force and fragility.” 

 

Listen to Haider Ackermann’s playlist here. 

 

By Delphine Roche

 

Alexander Wang dips into the Adidas archives for his fourth collaboration
869

Alexander Wang dips into the Adidas archives for his fourth collaboration

Fashion For his fourth collection with Adidas, the American designer Alexander Wang is using old creations by the sportswear label that he has deconstructed and reassembled to create 18 new pieces and 5 pairs of shoes. For his fourth collection with Adidas, the American designer Alexander Wang is using old creations by the sportswear label that he has deconstructed and reassembled to create 18 new pieces and 5 pairs of shoes.

Who is the artist Juno Calypso, responsible for Burberry’s latest Christmas campaign?
850

Who is the artist Juno Calypso, responsible for Burberry’s latest Christmas campaign?

Fashion For the latest Burberry campaign, London based artist Juno Calypso proposes an imaginary version of the spirit of Christmas with Naomi Campbell, Kristin Scott Thomas and M.I.A among others. For the latest Burberry campaign, London based artist Juno Calypso proposes an imaginary version of the spirit of Christmas with Naomi Campbell, Kristin Scott Thomas and M.I.A among others.

"Baby blue”, a fashion story by Sofia Sanchez et Mauro Mongiello
876

"Baby blue”, a fashion story by Sofia Sanchez et Mauro Mongiello

Fashion Discover the exclusive fashion story "Baby blue”, with Nuage Lepage, by Sofia Sanchez, Mauro Mongiello and Samuel François.  Discover the exclusive fashion story "Baby blue”, with Nuage Lepage, by Sofia Sanchez, Mauro Mongiello and Samuel François. 

547

Hugo Boss celebrates Michael Jackson with a re-edition of his legendary white suit

Fashion In parallel with the exhibition “Michael Jackson: On the Wall”, from November 23rd to February 14th 2019 at the Grand Palais, Hugo Boss is re-releasing Michael Jackson’s iconic white suit, as worn on the cover of his “Thriller” album, the highest selling record of all time. A capsule collection that's completed with a few unisex pieces featuring the figure of the king of pop.   In parallel with the exhibition “Michael Jackson: On the Wall”, from November 23rd to February 14th 2019 at the Grand Palais, Hugo Boss is re-releasing Michael Jackson’s iconic white suit, as worn on the cover of his “Thriller” album, the highest selling record of all time. A capsule collection that's completed with a few unisex pieces featuring the figure of the king of pop.  

“Nuits fauves”, a fashion story by Emmanuel Giraud
814

“Nuits fauves”, a fashion story by Emmanuel Giraud

Fashion Discover the exclusive fashion story “Nuits fauves”, with Kirstin Liljegren, by Emmanuel Giraud and Rebecca Bleynie. Discover the exclusive fashion story “Nuits fauves”, with Kirstin Liljegren, by Emmanuel Giraud and Rebecca Bleynie.