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21 BurberryFall-Winter 2023-2024 Daniel Lee London Fashion week

What to remember about Daniel Lee’s first Burberry show?

FASHION WEEK

A few months after Daniel Lee was appointed new creative director of Burberry, the house
unveiled the British designer’s first Fall-Winter 2023-2024 collection in London on Monday,
th February 20th .

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© Courtesy of Burberry

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A knight on a sturdy horse rides towards the left, carrying a large flag with the letter B on it. This conquering image, which has been Burberry’s historic logo since 1901, has reappeared a few weeks ago as part of the house’s image after a five-year absence. That symbol is a strong signal of the new direction taken by Daniel Lee since his appointment as the new creative director of the British fashion house last October, a year after he left Bottega Veneta. Presented yesterday in a marquee installed for the occasion in a park in London, the first Burberry collection signed by the British designer clearly states his ambitions – to celebrate the vast heritage of this historic house, while taking it further.

 

Burberry’s traditional codes revisited by Daniel Lee

 

Daniel Lee has not hesitated to capture Burberry’s historical codes right from the start. As one of the pieces that has made the house internationally famous for decades, the trench coat is revamped in the very first outfits made for this Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection. Embellished with fir green or purple fur collars, available in oversized cuts and a dark palette, these first variations move away from Burberry’s signature beige color. Further on, however, the beige trench coat has been deconstructed to become a safari dress or a shirt tucked into matching trousers under a raincoat. Daniel Lee even unveils an ingenious dress that brings the back of the trench to the front, and vice-versa, to end the piece around the neck. Following in the footsteps of his predecessors Christopher Bailey and Riccardo Tisci, the British designer reinvents the legendary Burberry tartan in a large, oblique, and all-over version on suits, turtleneck jumpers, pencil skirts, coats, and woolen wide trousers, all in unique tones – first purple, then burgundy, yellow, and finally blue on white.
 

  • Son Heung-min at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Son Heung-min at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Son Heung-min at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Bianca Jagger and Georgia May Jagger at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Bianca Jagger and Georgia May Jagger at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Bianca Jagger and Georgia May Jagger at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Benji B and Hank Korsan at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Benji B and Hank Korsan at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Benji B and Hank Korsan at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Bianca Jagger at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Bianca Jagger at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Bianca Jagger at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Christopher Kane at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Christopher Kane at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Christopher Kane at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Edward Enninful OBE et Naomi Campbell at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Edward Enninful OBE et Naomi Campbell at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Edward Enninful OBE et Naomi Campbell at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Future at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Future at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Future at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Gene Gallagher and Izzy Richmond at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Gene Gallagher and Izzy Richmond at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Gene Gallagher and Izzy Richmond at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Georgia May Jagger at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Georgia May Jagger at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Georgia May Jagger at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
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    Georgia May Jagger at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Georgia May Jagger at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Honey Dijon at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

     Honey Dijon at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show  Honey Dijon at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Jason Statham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Jason Statham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Jason Statham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Jason Statham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Jason Statham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Jason Statham and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Jefferson Hack and Jan Kennedy at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Jefferson Hack and Jan Kennedy at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Jefferson Hack and Jan Kennedy at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Jefferson Hack at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Jefferson Hack at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Jefferson Hack at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Jodie Comer at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Jodie Comer at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Jodie Comer at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
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    Jodie Comer at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Jodie Comer at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Kano and D Double E at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Kano and D Double E at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Kano and D Double E at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Kano and Sheila Atim at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Kano and Sheila Atim at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Kano and Sheila Atim at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
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    Kano and Sheila Atim at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Kano and Sheila Atim at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Kano at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Kano at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Kano at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Liberty Ross and Jimmy Iovine at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Liberty Ross and Jimmy Iovine at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Liberty Ross and Jimmy Iovine at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Liberty Ross at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Liberty Ross at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Liberty Ross at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Liberty Ross at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Liberty Ross  at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Liberty Ross  at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Matthew Henson at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

     Matthew Henson at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show  Matthew Henson at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Molly Moorish at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Molly Moorish at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Molly Moorish at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Naomi Ackie at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Naomi Ackie at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Naomi Ackie at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Nubya Garcia at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Nubya Garcia at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Nubya Garcia at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Oliver Sim and Jamie xx at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Oliver Sim and Jamie xx  at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Oliver Sim and Jamie xx  at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Oliver Sim and John Glacier at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Oliver Sim and John Glacier at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Oliver Sim and John Glacier at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Reece James at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Reece James at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Reece James at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Selma Blair at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Selma Blair at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Selma Blair at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Selma Blair at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Selma Blair at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Selma Blair at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Sheila Atim and D Double E at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Sheila Atim and D Double E  at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Sheila Atim and D Double E  at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Sheila Atim at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Sheila Atim at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Sheila Atim at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Skepta at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Skepta at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Skepta at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Skepta at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Skepta at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Skepta at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Slawn at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Slawn at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Slawn at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Stormzy & Jason Statham at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Stormzy & Jason Statham at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Stormzy & Jason Statham at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Stormzy and Jonathan Akeroyd at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Stormzy and Jonathan Akeroyd at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Stormzy and Jonathan Akeroyd at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Vanessa Redgrave and Roberto Bolle at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Vanessa Redgrave and Roberto Bolle at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Vanessa Redgrave and Roberto Bolle at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show
  • Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

    Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show Les célébrités at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

Celebrities at the Burberry Fall-Winter 2023-2024 show

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A new romantic wardrobe draped in nobility

 

As this deep autumnal color palette suggests it, the new Burberry collection infuses the house with a romantic, even melancholic, and ultra-British touch that contrasts with the urban image brought by Riccardo Tisci between 2018 and 2022. This new spirit is noticeable in the Tudor rose print – a British emblem and a nod to the house’s eponymous perfume – that adorns several pieces, as well as in the fiery feather assemblages by Lemarié that decorates a crop top and a coat. Aside from these ornamentations, the wide cape-inspired scarves wrapped around the shoulders, the asymmetrical dresses cut in light and airy fabric at times, or in woolen cloth tied around the waist, the trousers falling elegantly over the shoes, compose a comfortable wardrobe, whose fluidity and noble accent may sometimes recall the spirit of the house of Prada. However, this silhouette discreetly contrasts from some of the masculine ensembles, which put a greater emphasis on the outerwear – printed T-shirts, hiking boots, and oversized jackets with furry hats sketch out the image of a chic trapper that naturally fits in with the rest of the collection.
 

 

Warm and functional accessories 

 

Echoing the house’s identity, which historically specialized in rainwear, the Burberry man and woman by Daniel Lee are equipped for wet and cold environments. The first look of this Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection displays a hot water bottle covered with a tartan wool sheath carried like a minaudière, while fur quickly makes an entrance on hoods, collars, huge hats, and covers heeled sandals or even hangs from several leather shoulder bags. Among zippers on trousers and pairs of rubber boots worn by several models, the house’s new collection offers a range of functional pieces suitable for expeditions into the wild and keeps adding to the nomadic style of the gentleman farmer developed by the house over the years. The duck is set up as the symbol of a peaceful country life and tenfold in yellow or rogue on black in an all-over print. It even takes the shape of a funny woolen hat. Already displayed in every shop window of the house for a few days, the recently reintroduced historic Burberry logo invades an elegant dress and white coats with its royal blue. Perhaps is it subtle hint that the house has found its new knight in shining armor in Daniel Lee?