© Filippo Fior
Since 1988, Véronique Nichanian has been designing the Hermès menswear, making it a point of honour to reinvent the house classics with a modern and dynamic twist. For the men's spring-summer 2022 collection, the designer worked for the third time with Cyril Teste to organise an actual runway show. This time, the show took place in the courtyard of the Mobilier National, a modernist pre-war building that houses all of France's state furniture.
The summer collection - presented in spite of the rain - celebrated the happiness of being together, and brought a real breath of freedom to this predominantly digital Fashion Week. While the show was punctuated by numerous downpours, the models were mostly wearing outerwear and waterproof pieces, including reversible bi-material parkas, double waistcoats in Toilbright - a waterproof fabric developed by Hermès - and straight-cut jackets.
In this men's wardrobe, with its gentle colours (celadon, carbon, pink, greige), chic and nonchalance are intertwined in a mixture of materials and techniques. We thus find trousers with flared pleats and Bermuda shorts worn with loose cotton poplin shirts in the house's historic "Mors" and "Gourmettes" prints. Adding a pop touch to this collection teetering between elegance and casualness, certain cardigans and jumpers are printed with daisies, while others are presented in acidic tones punctuated with dip-dye effects.