On Tuesday 1st March 2022, in a tent set up opposite the Eiffel Tower, in which a solemn atmosphere prevailed, Anthony Vaccarello presented his fall-winter 2022-2023 collection in a set of beige carpet and mirrored screens inspired by the refined interiors of Jean-Michel Frank. Set to a dramatic, exclusive soundtrack by Sebastian, the Belgian designer's looks achieved exquisite sophistication, reflecting both the legacy of the house's founder –currently showcased in six Parisian museums– and his own approach finetuned over the years since his arrival in 2016. In this new collection, Anthony Vacarello seems to give a new dimension to the masculine-feminine mix introduced by Yves Saint Laurent with the first tuxedo (smoking) for women in 1966, not through pieces borrowed from menswear, but by creating a tension between cuts, fabrics and references.
Flowing, wavy dresses and skirts in tulle and satin were worn under in wool or leather peacoats, overcoats and biker jackets with impressive shoulders,. Slimming leggings were topped with fake fur oversize pieces better than the real thing, while long, almost floor-length dresses eloquently hugged the body. The accessories brilliantly completed this memorably elegant collection, such as a multitude of silver or dark wood bracelets worn together, refined sculpture-like earrings, strappy sandals, patent leather ankle boots or pumps that brought the ultimate finishing touch to the ready-to-wear. Everything in this collection celebrated the timeless style of the house, whether the dresses –in turn sculptural, draped, flowing, flounced or geometric– which constituted a non-exhaustive panorama of 20th century fashion, or the assortment of coats –playing on lengths and cuts– which ranged from the most formal to the most rock n’roll. All of this, stripped of the male gaze that the designer was labelled with, boasted a much more subtle sensuality than usual, celebrating the power of women.