Manuel Facchini signs a very chic sportswear collection in between rock stylings and techno prints
Under his own name, Manuel Facchini, artistic director for Byblos, has created a collection that mixes rock stylings and techno prints, fit for the heroines of science-fiction cinema.
It takes guts to combine two would-be irreconcilable styles into original, sculptural pieces. And it’s a challenge most brilliantly met by Manuel Facchini as he transposes details of the gothic-rock universe onto elegant sportswear skirts and dresses. His muse – a creature caught somewhere between cyborg and femme fatale – takes her form from a heroine borne of a parallel world, as though imagined by Ridley Scott. Indeed the designer’s audacious silhouettes would fit seamlessly into any science-fiction film, or a Stanley Kubrick: a director from whom he drew much inspiration in his search for the just balance between subtlety and impact.
Known since 2006 as the artistic director for the Italian fashion house Byblos, the talented, tenebrous Manuel Facchini finally gave form to his own personal desires when in February 2015, he presented a first collection under his own name. He returned at the last London Fashion Week with a spring-summer 2016 collection entitled Histoire d’a(r)mour. A name that evoked “both the ‘amour’ associated with delicacy, femininity, and the idea of fluidity in the garment, but also the idea of armour which refines this vision with a measure of force, and almost a kind of brutality,” he explains. It really is the game of contrasts that interests and inspires the designer. The contrast between two seemingly incompatible worlds: the universe of rock and that of high-tech sports. And then, the contrast between soft, feminine lines, and graphic techno, geometric (in jacquard) or architectural (3-d printing) prints, all of which repose upon his passion for art.
In his Histoire d’a(r)mour collection, Manuel Facchini rallies a veritable army of victorious warrioresses. In glamorous, sculpted mini-dresses, they stride the starkly lit podium to the rhythm of techno music, robotic and triumphant. Raspberry reds, fluorescent yellows and oranges brighten blacks and white, recalling stadium invading sports jerseys. This much is clear: Manuel Facchini is unveiling a brand new universe, where the separate loves of self and clothes resound in perfect unison.
By Léa Zetlaoui and Chloé Fage, photo by Lonneke van der Palen, direction by Camille-Joséphine Teisseire.
Jacket, MANUEL FACCHINI
Photo by Lonneke van der Palen, realisation Camille-Joséphine Teisseire.