746

“I don’t feel in tune with the Parisian cliché.” Meet Christelle Kocher, founder of Koché and finalist for the LVMH prize

 

LVMH prize finalist for her label Koché, French designer Christelle Kocher combines haute couture expertise with streetwear in her own very generational and exciting fashion. An encounter.

Numéro: Tell us about your background in fashion?

 

Christelle Kocher: I studied at Central Saint Martins and then worked at Giorgio Armani in Milan and with Martine Sitbon until her brand closed. Then I was in charge of delicate fabrics at Chloé. After that I joined the team at Dries Van Noten in Antwerp. Virginie Viard [studio director at Chanel] asked me to resurrect the feather workers Lemarié [one of the Chanel Maisons d’Art, prestigious French artisan craftsmen]. So I accepted the position of artistic director there, and that contact with couture heritage and French tradition proved very decisive. At the same time I started working with Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta, where the artisanal expertise is just as important. I learnt so much and above all became absolutely passionate about the skills of the artisans. In 2014 I stopped collaborating with Bottega Veneta to launch my own brand, all while continuing my work at Lemarié.

How would you define the DNA of Koché, your label that aligns the heritage of couture with streetwear?

 

I began with that very notion of marrying artisanal know-how with a more casual style, something more contemporary, fresher. The most exclusive pieces, like my feathered coats lined with jersey are made by the Lemarié, Lesage and Goossens ateliers, but it's important for me to also offer more accessible clothes. The starting point is to do something very personal, that suits me. I grew up in a Parisian suburb doing sport and I wore a lot of tracksuits. Then I discovered luxury and was blown away by the beauty of it. But I travel a lot and my lifestyle is very urban, so I need comfortable clothes. I buy a lot of things at Nike and wear them with jackets from Chanel or Bottega Veneta… 

Your style has nothing typically Parisian about it. Do you find the image of the Rive Gauche girl in jeans, stilettos and trench coat a bit dated? 

 

It's true that's not really my thing. I don't feel in tune with that Parisian cliché because today with social networks and the internet, you get to see fashion from around the world and you can buy whatever you like from online stores. I've lived in Italy, in Antwerp, in London, I've spent a lot of time in New York when I was working for Bottega Veneta, and my perspective has long since gone beyond any Franco-French boundaries. As for my vision of Paris, I express it through the shows I present in places that embody the coming together of several social groups: the Halles shopping centre, the Prado. They're events open to passers-by, I like the idea of them being democratic, electric and fun. 

You're one of the finalists for the LVMH prize, what will you do if you win?

 

This prize would allow me to open an online boutique, develop the unisex side to my brand (knits, t-shirts, etc) and to start jewellery and accessories. But even just getting the chance to show my work to Karl Lagerfeld and Phoebe Phil is a prize in itself. 

 

www.koche.fr

 

Interview by Delphine Roche

 

Check out more interviews of the LVMH prize finalists:

Glenn Martens’ interview.

Brandon Maxwell’s interview.

 

“Mascarade”, a fashion story by Camille Vivier
850

“Mascarade”, a fashion story by Camille Vivier

Fashion Discover the exclusive fashion story "Mascarade" with Alyssa Traoré, Jamily Meurer et Noah Luis Brown, by Camille Vivier. Discover the exclusive fashion story "Mascarade" with Alyssa Traoré, Jamily Meurer et Noah Luis Brown, by Camille Vivier.

Alexander Wang dips into the Adidas archives for his fourth collaboration
869

Alexander Wang dips into the Adidas archives for his fourth collaboration

Fashion For his fourth collection with Adidas, the American designer Alexander Wang is using old creations by the sportswear label that he has deconstructed and reassembled to create 18 new pieces and 5 pairs of shoes. For his fourth collection with Adidas, the American designer Alexander Wang is using old creations by the sportswear label that he has deconstructed and reassembled to create 18 new pieces and 5 pairs of shoes.

Who is the artist Juno Calypso, responsible for Burberry’s latest Christmas campaign?
850

Who is the artist Juno Calypso, responsible for Burberry’s latest Christmas campaign?

Fashion For the latest Burberry campaign, London based artist Juno Calypso proposes an imaginary version of the spirit of Christmas with Naomi Campbell, Kristin Scott Thomas and M.I.A among others. For the latest Burberry campaign, London based artist Juno Calypso proposes an imaginary version of the spirit of Christmas with Naomi Campbell, Kristin Scott Thomas and M.I.A among others.

"Baby blue”, a fashion story by Sofia Sanchez et Mauro Mongiello
876

"Baby blue”, a fashion story by Sofia Sanchez et Mauro Mongiello

Fashion Discover the exclusive fashion story "Baby blue”, with Nuage Lepage, by Sofia Sanchez, Mauro Mongiello and Samuel François.  Discover the exclusive fashion story "Baby blue”, with Nuage Lepage, by Sofia Sanchez, Mauro Mongiello and Samuel François. 

547

Hugo Boss celebrates Michael Jackson with a re-edition of his legendary white suit

Fashion In parallel with the exhibition “Michael Jackson: On the Wall”, from November 23rd to February 14th 2019 at the Grand Palais, Hugo Boss is re-releasing Michael Jackson’s iconic white suit, as worn on the cover of his “Thriller” album, the highest selling record of all time. A capsule collection that's completed with a few unisex pieces featuring the figure of the king of pop.   In parallel with the exhibition “Michael Jackson: On the Wall”, from November 23rd to February 14th 2019 at the Grand Palais, Hugo Boss is re-releasing Michael Jackson’s iconic white suit, as worn on the cover of his “Thriller” album, the highest selling record of all time. A capsule collection that's completed with a few unisex pieces featuring the figure of the king of pop.  

“Nuits fauves”, a fashion story by Emmanuel Giraud
814

“Nuits fauves”, a fashion story by Emmanuel Giraud

Fashion Discover the exclusive fashion story “Nuits fauves”, with Kirstin Liljegren, by Emmanuel Giraud and Rebecca Bleynie. Discover the exclusive fashion story “Nuits fauves”, with Kirstin Liljegren, by Emmanuel Giraud and Rebecca Bleynie.