Jeremy Scott's baroque excess for Moschino
Numéro asks Jeremy Scott, artistic director at Moschino, about his baroque-brash show held in the Pitti Uomo trade-show in Florence, last June.
Numéro: What was the inspiration behind the Formula 1 graphics and baroque powdered wigs of your runway show?
Jeremy Scott: Well several things sprang to mind at the same time: Fellini’s Casanova, John Travolta in Staying Alice, Louis XIV, Prince, princes and queens and. A host of little details within an utterly decadent whole. That is what I wanted to play around with at least. To adjust the silhouettes, adding a cartoon element for something true to my style, and perfectly of the hour.
You are often described as an ‘anti-fashion’ designer. Do you think this means that fashion has gotten so serious as to no longer tolerate the slightest bit of irony within its fold?
Exactly! Fun is hard to find in today’s fashion world, and I don’t really understand why. Is it because brands are trying desperately to maximise profits by selling handbags? Or maybe it’s down to the accelerated calendar scheduling. But I suffer the same time constraints as everyone and yet I manage to bring joy and fun to each of my shows, so I can’t really find a valid excuse for them. Do you know what I mean? Every season I have to supply collections for my own label, for Adidas, for Moschino, and I nonetheless find a way to have fun with it all...so really, what’s their excuse? (laughter)
Do you consider yourself a pop artist?
I really do think I’m an artist, and the shows and collections constitute my medium. I use the garments and the mise en scene of the shows as a means to express my art. But it doesn’t bother me if people consider this the work of a ‘designer’. I don’t think one is better than the other. It’s just that my approach to my work is different to the majority of fashion designers. So when I say I’m an artist, it isn’t just a question of ego: when I was a child, I took painting and ceramics lessons - my whole existence was concentrated upon art. Everything I do today is an extension of that childhood.
By Delphine Roche