349

The tuxedo for women by Pallas

 

Numéro caught up with Véronique and Daniel Pallas, the Parisian duo who have reconsidered women’s wear by drawing inspiration from the tuxedo.

From their workshops in the 9th arrondissement in Paris, Daniel and Véronique Pallas propose seasonal collections based on tuxedos for women. A masculine/feminine vision anchored in an established savoir-faire developed since the 1960s and inherited from bespoke suits for men. Timeless and yet very much imbued with fashion bias, the spring-summer 2017 collection demonstrates once again the absolute relevance of this Parisian double act. An encounter…

 

Numéro: Since 2012 you’ve been creating collections based on the tuxedo. How do you renew this concept season after season?

Daniel Pallas: Right from the start we offered a range of cuts, but also pieces that are very adapted to daywear, tuxedo-dresses, pantsuits… Then we’ve been evolving the tuxedo while remaining faithful to its details. We worked on the cut and developed asymmetries. We’ve changed the collars, added contrasting piping,  played with the stripes on the trousers, which this season are so wide we’ve ended up with a tricolour garment.

It’s vital that we expand our vocabulary without changing our foundations. In particular we needed the shirts and knitwear to be as well conceived as our tuxedos.

Ever since your winter 2015 collection with its 1970s disco edge, you’ve been developing a wider wardrobe including lightweight knits to be worn under the jackets, as well as shirts

Daniel Pallas: It’s vital that we expand our vocabulary without changing our foundations. In particular we needed the shirts and knitwear to be as well conceived as our tuxedos, and now they are. This season we created a lamé blouse with the fluidity of liquid mercury, but stayed focused on the tuxedo itself by offering less pieces for day. The subtlety comes in the colours: mocha and a blue, a shade we found in the archives of my father, a menswear tailor whose workshops I took over.

It turns out that even Beyoncé wore one of our suits to a film premiere! A design with tennis stripes to match one of Jay-Z’s suits.

Since you began there’s been a group of “Pallas women” who you work with and who play an important role in your collections. Who are they?

Daniel Pallas: They’re people who’ve been loyal to us since the beginning, models and stylists. These women are more than just muses; they’re close friends of the house. Around Allegria Torrassa and Nikki Pauls of the Cicciolina collective, there’s a whole gang of girls who embody the Pallas attitude.

Véronique Pallas: In our lookbook for spring-summer 2017 the models we chose to work with embody the various ways our clothes can be appropriated. Tammy Glauser brings an extreme modernity, while with Anna Maria Ciovota its pure elegance.

Daniel Pallas: It turns out that even Beyoncé wore one of our suits to a film premiere! A design with tennis stripes to match one of Jay-Z’s suits. We were thrilled because she’d translated our philosophy perfectly: the masculine adapted to the feminine. 

The women who follow us all have very strong personalities, a sharp sense of style

Would you say that Pallas attracts a certain type of character?

Daniel Pallas: The women who follow us all have very strong personalities, a sharp sense of style and a perfect understanding of what suits them. Aymeline Valade for example is a friend of the house. We’re very connected to her through friendship, there’s a strong feeling there

Véronique Pallas: We recently met Tilda Swinton who ordered a jacket from us with a scarf collar and cigarette trousers.

Daniel Pallas: These women don’t share an attitude so much as a sense of confidence and conviction in their taste. We hope to continue evolving with them for a long time.

 

www.pallasparis.fr

 

Interview by Delphine Roche

Alexander Wang dips into the Adidas archives for his fourth collaboration
869

Alexander Wang dips into the Adidas archives for his fourth collaboration

Fashion For his fourth collection with Adidas, the American designer Alexander Wang is using old creations by the sportswear label that he has deconstructed and reassembled to create 18 new pieces and 5 pairs of shoes. For his fourth collection with Adidas, the American designer Alexander Wang is using old creations by the sportswear label that he has deconstructed and reassembled to create 18 new pieces and 5 pairs of shoes.

Who is the artist Juno Calypso, responsible for Burberry’s latest Christmas campaign?
850

Who is the artist Juno Calypso, responsible for Burberry’s latest Christmas campaign?

Fashion For the latest Burberry campaign, London based artist Juno Calypso proposes an imaginary version of the spirit of Christmas with Naomi Campbell, Kristin Scott Thomas and M.I.A among others. For the latest Burberry campaign, London based artist Juno Calypso proposes an imaginary version of the spirit of Christmas with Naomi Campbell, Kristin Scott Thomas and M.I.A among others.

"Baby blue”, a fashion story by Sofia Sanchez et Mauro Mongiello
876

"Baby blue”, a fashion story by Sofia Sanchez et Mauro Mongiello

Fashion Discover the exclusive fashion story "Baby blue”, with Nuage Lepage, by Sofia Sanchez, Mauro Mongiello and Samuel François.  Discover the exclusive fashion story "Baby blue”, with Nuage Lepage, by Sofia Sanchez, Mauro Mongiello and Samuel François. 

547

Hugo Boss celebrates Michael Jackson with a re-edition of his legendary white suit

Fashion In parallel with the exhibition “Michael Jackson: On the Wall”, from November 23rd to February 14th 2019 at the Grand Palais, Hugo Boss is re-releasing Michael Jackson’s iconic white suit, as worn on the cover of his “Thriller” album, the highest selling record of all time. A capsule collection that's completed with a few unisex pieces featuring the figure of the king of pop.   In parallel with the exhibition “Michael Jackson: On the Wall”, from November 23rd to February 14th 2019 at the Grand Palais, Hugo Boss is re-releasing Michael Jackson’s iconic white suit, as worn on the cover of his “Thriller” album, the highest selling record of all time. A capsule collection that's completed with a few unisex pieces featuring the figure of the king of pop.  

“Nuits fauves”, a fashion story by Emmanuel Giraud
814

“Nuits fauves”, a fashion story by Emmanuel Giraud

Fashion Discover the exclusive fashion story “Nuits fauves”, with Kirstin Liljegren, by Emmanuel Giraud and Rebecca Bleynie. Discover the exclusive fashion story “Nuits fauves”, with Kirstin Liljegren, by Emmanuel Giraud and Rebecca Bleynie.