All of the gang, at Raf Simons spring-summer 2016


Numéro tells of the Raf Simons’ menswear spring-summer 2016 and its silhouettes straight from a rebel gang.

There’s often something reinvigorating about Raf Simons’ runway shows, and spring-summer 2016 was no exception. For the older journalists, an expedition to Ivry-sur-Seine seemed extreme. Certain among them excitedly recounted stories of Berlin minimal-electro. For those in their thirties, the prospect of following the Belgian designer to a city limits warehouse for a standing-only whiffed vaguely of the raver years. 


If ‘90s references have sufficiently swamped Simons’ past shows to leave certain spectators skeptical, spring-summer 2016 saw the best of the designer: his talent for precision-distilling subcultures and making them his own, and his ability to go beyond the individual garment and into the elaboration of complete characters, in this case, phantasmic gangs of the original too-cool-for-school boys.


But in the image of the Mods: trench-coats to die for coupled with baggy trousers and granddad knits in ‘90s appropriate XXL formats, infusing the Adidas-shod generation sportswear with a gentlemanly elegance. The soundtrack gave good face to analogue house producer Ivvvo, completing a decidedly just show: edgy, referential and yet full of practical, desirable clothing.


By Delphine Roche