Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy menswear spring-summer 2016 collection
Numéro revisits Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy,menswear spring-summer 2016 collection, and its full-bodied religious iconography.
The merry-go-round that is Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy has everything turning. Indeed the designer held his show in the old horse market-hall of Paris’ Georges Brassens park. But no mention of obstacle courses in the programming; this was more an affair of metal cages, for that signature Tisci urban-SM rigor.
In the hall, a gang was forming. But Sky Ferreira in a printed shirt-dress, Courtney Love with her perfectly slick hair and controversial NBA basketball player, Russel Westbrook, straw boater jammed tight to his 1.91m high cranium: all seemed, if not just a little reserved in the presence of the hyper-virile macho male archetypes marching before the audience. Worker jumpsuits, rhinestone-striped mafioso suits and bomber/wraparound-skirt duos counterbalanced the denim ensembles with spice. As is customary at Givenchy, all eyes awaited the ever-reliable appearance of the season’s defining print to-be: behold a Christ in the firm tradition of Marina Abramovic’s beloved Madonna t-shirt (not one recent photo goes by without the appearance of her fetish-T). The muscles ’n’ tatts bad boy casting was interweaved with svelte and subtle, courtesy of Jamie Bochert, Naomi and Mariacarla’s hoop-eared. Latina beauties, with their sublime couture dresses of lace ruffling. Phantasmagoric apparitions of saloon girls and cholas ro stoke and enflame the male gaze. The Italian designer demonstrated anew his ability to cast wholes out of disparate elements: religion and gangster, haute couture and urban thrust. Kendall Jenner took the catwalk under mother’s watchful eye. The sounds were covered by The Martinez Brothers, a DJ duo packing Cuban gangster allure, big in Ibiza where Riccardo Tisci spends the majority of his vacations. The family portrait is looking decidedly complete.
By Delphine Roche