BEST OF 2015: Simon Porte Jacquemus wins the LVMH Special Jury Prize
French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus is the laureate of this year's LVMH Special Jury Prize,
Winner of the LVMH Special Prize, the young designer will receive €150,000 and a year of mentoring. "I’m really very happy! This Special Prize symbolizes the industry’s recognition of my work. I’m very moved that a little boy who launched his own label should win an LVMH prize five years later," confided Simon Porte Jacquemus to Numéro.
Darling of the Parisian fashion scene since his first runway show in September 2012, Simon stands out among his peers through his radiant smile and sunny disposition. An LVMH finalist for the second time, this young autodidact grew up in the Luberon region of France, where he was steeped in 80s pop culture.
Far from renouncing his Provençal origins, he celebrates them in collections of spontaneous humour that feature primary colours, geometric cuts and graphic stripes inspired by the sunshades that bloom on French beaches in the summer. In his collections and elaborate runway shows, it’s clear that under the sunny surface lie more radical intentions. Simon has already caught the eye of both Karl Lagerfeld and Rei Kawakubo, the Comme des Garçons’ artistic director sometimes choosing him for her window displays and featuring his designs at her Dover Street Market concept store.
But whatever the setting, he remains faithful to the “naive and very simple” girl he designs for season after season. “For spring/summer 2015 I looked to Marseille for inspiration. I wanted to play on the accumulation of stripes that are everywhere in summer. It’s also a way of evoking the outfits worn by florists or fishermen you might see at the market.”
His spring-summer 2016 collection dabbled with the metaphor of a lunar Pierrot. Based around a four-colour palette, Jacquemus showed off his architectural talents once more. From the opening look to the finale asymmetry reigned supreme and dictated a Jacquemus collection bursting with trompe-l’oeil armholes and burlesque patchworks.
But success has not gone to Simon’s head, for the handsome young designer dreams only of “being happy, wherever I am.”