Atelier Versace Couture show fall-winter 2016 collection
Numéro revisits Atelier Versace fall-winter 2015/2016 show, and it's bohemian hedonist identity.
Donatella Versace is an icon for a whole generation of designers aged between 30 and 40. Weaned on MTV and gasping with admiration at the decadence, at once classic and pop, of her brother Gianni, figures like Riccardo Tisci, Olivier Rousteing and Anthony Vaccarello have each, in their own way, sworn allegiance to the white-blonde Italian Madonna. Every season the Atelier Versace show, at which crowds of gawkers and wannabe paparazzi wait hours in the hope of a selfie with J-Lo or Lady Gaga, serves as a reminder of who exactly, in the kingdom of pop culture, is queen.
Inside, in place of a throne, was a transparent-glass podium filled with thousands of decapitated orchids. Heads didn’t roll, of course, but instead turned to watch the quick march of the models to a soundtrack that went from a soul cover of Nirvana to Emotional Rescue by the Rolling Stones. The mood was juvenile and the superimposed layers of unhemmed muslin that made up the scarf dresses dripped with fringe.
Cut above the knee, these garments were accessorized with vinyl platform boots, completing the bohemian hedonist feel of the whole show: rock infused with disco madness, folk sweetness mixed with the opulent Italian neoclassicism that has always been the fundament of the Versace style. Sculptural vestal dresses, combining impressive corsetry and muslin drapery, typify this new Versace era which, according to the press pack, is characterized by “softness” – on her bed of orchids, the Versace woman dreamily reclines, intoxicated by vapours that are perhaps not all entirely natural.
By Delphine Roche
The Rolling Stones' Emotional Rescue from the soundtrack of the Atelier Versace show.