Anthony Vaccarello, Jacquemus and Each x Other have opened Paris Fashion Week
As the sun streams onto the pavements as much as the catwalks, Each x Other, Anthony Vaccarello and Jacquemus start the dance at the Paris collections.
And the message behind this inaugural trilogy? The promotion of an impetuous and light-hearted style.
In the corridors of the Maison de la Radio, Anthony Vaccarello broke from his hegemony of black and gave into the temptation of splashes of khaki, pearl grey and even red. As sensual and as rock as ever, the designer’s style was enriched this season with references to the 1980’s and to pop art, palpable in the shapes, textures and carefully crafted associations. Thus the “Vaccarélien” art of asymmetry teams up with diode-esque fringes, Warhol-style pixelated prints and raw denim. The only thing missing was the designer’s muse Anja Rubik whose face was drawn over dresses with a very “Lichtenstein” feel.
While some might play with the sun, others prefer the moon. It’s certainly the case with Jacquemus whose spring-summer 2016 collection dabbled with the metaphor of a lunar Pierrot. Based around a four-colour palette, the Marseilles designer showed off his architectural talents once more. From the opening look to the finale asymmetry reigned supreme and dictated a Jacquemus collection bursting with trompe-l’oeil armholes and burlesque patchworks.
Earlier on in the day at the immaculate surroundings of the Hôtel du Grand Veneur, Each x Other’s silhouettes nonchalantly strolled between the grand salon and the garden. For their second show in the official Parisian calendar, Ilan Delouis and Jenny Mannerheim imagined a collection with eclectic consonances, casually mixing genres and styles: an officer’s jacket worn over slogan t-shirts, a Victorian jabot coupled with fraying denim, silk flirting with leather…. The poetry of Robert Montgomery – an ongoing collaborator of the label – was a common theme and featured on t-shirts, shirts and biker jackets, adding to the contemplative nature of this attire. .
By Louise Samson