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Courrèges Spring-Summer 2016 show

 

Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant presented their highly-anticipated first runway show since their nomination to the head of Courrèges.

Under the leadership of its new owners, Jacques Bungert and Frédéric Torloting, Courrèges has for several seasons led the pack with its showroom presentations of new designs that revisit the house’s archives. Now, with Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, formerly the duo at the head of the Coperni label, as artistic directors at Courrèges, the house takes a big step forward. At the Opéra Bastille, a giant screen featuring the Courrèges logo welcomes the audience. Editors, squinting in the bright light, discretely slip on sunglasses.

 

The designers take over from here. Microphone in hand, they announce the program in French and English. It’s a streamlined presentation. From the house of the designer who dreamed of becoming an architect, we are shown a range of miniskirts and short jackets featuring the simple geometric forms typical of the ‘60s, the era that witnessed the birth of Courrèges. Both construction and aesthetics are celebrated as each piece is rotated at every angle on the giant screen. Tops and bottoms are presented separately on white mesh bodysuits. This is clothing pared down to its most basic elements. There is a wide array of jackets (teddy, biker or parka, sporty or workwear) in vinyl of all kinds (neon yellow or silver, multicolor), as well as little trapeze skirts. Textiles are added to these, with details and patterns. Little dresses with spaghetti straps or sequins enhance the sense of juvenile simplicity.