269

“Youth Hotel” by Gosha Rubchinskiy, a powerful portrait of Russian youth

 

The young and yet already famous fashion designer, photographer and video maker Gosha Rubchinskiy has just unveiled “Youth Hotel”, his second collection of photographs powerfully depicting the Russian youth of today.

269

 

Not yet 30 and Gosha Rubchinskiy has already so seduced the world as a fashion designer, starting with Rei Kawakubo, that his ready-to-wear line is sold worldwide in the hippest stores from Opening Ceremony to Dover Street Market. But the designer’s strong personality draws just as much interest. Having opened the Vetements runway show in Paris as a model, the young Russian is busy unveiling yet another of his skills, photography. After showing his fascination for Crimean skaters with “Crimea/kids”, his first collection of photographs, Gosha has turned his camera to the theme of adolescence in Russia. Between portraits and more spontaneous clichés, the multi-talented young Russian plunges us into an unfiltered Moscow without a hint of artifice. Muscovite cool kids with shaved heads in 90s garb.

 

Conceived with the same references as his “1984” ready-to-wear collection, the book is also a reflection on his country’s political situation. During the runway show, parallels drawn between the totalitarian society of the novel and the current Russian regime acts as a common thread and appears again as his photos highlight the brutality of Soviet architecture and the monotony of urban landscapes. His is a quasi-documentary style that imbues the project with a startling reality.

 

Through his photography, this ode to youth also reveals an astonishing gentleness, showcasing more intimate snapshots of life and moments of complicity between these young teenagers. It’s a disturbing view on a disillusioned yet creative underground youth, of which Gosha Rubchinskiy is the most influential spokesperson.

 

 

“Youth Hotel”,  available at Trading Museum Comme des Garçons Paris, 54, rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, Paris VIIIe.

 

By Chloë Fage 

 

© Gosha Rubchinskiy, 2015 / IDEA

© Gosha Rubchinskiy, 2015 / IDEA

© Gosha Rubchinskiy, 2015 / IDEA

© Gosha Rubchinskiy, 2015 / IDEA

© Gosha Rubchinskiy, 2015 / IDEA

© Gosha Rubchinskiy, 2015 / IDEA

© Gosha Rubchinskiy, 2015 / IDEA

Who is Dave Heath, master of American photography ?
987

Who is Dave Heath, master of American photography ?

Photography He sought to capture the private intimacy of his contemporaries. Now Le Bal in Paris is showing the penetrating oeuvre of this monument of American photography.  He sought to capture the private intimacy of his contemporaries. Now Le Bal in Paris is showing the penetrating oeuvre of this monument of American photography. 

The 6 new photography talents to watch from Unseen Amsterdam
874

The 6 new photography talents to watch from Unseen Amsterdam

Photography At the end of September the world of contemporary photography convened for the seventh edition of Unseen Amsterdam. Kenta Cobayashi’s futurist compositions rub shoulders with Jaakko Kahilaniemi’s ravaged landscapes….Reporting from the Netherlands, a look at emerging photographic talent.  At the end of September the world of contemporary photography convened for the seventh edition of Unseen Amsterdam. Kenta Cobayashi’s futurist compositions rub shoulders with Jaakko Kahilaniemi’s ravaged landscapes….Reporting from the Netherlands, a look at emerging photographic talent. 

At Arles, Ann Ray plunges us into the intimate world of Alexander McQueen
123

At Arles, Ann Ray plunges us into the intimate world of Alexander McQueen

Photography At this year’s Rencontres d'Arles, French photographer Ann Ray takes us on an intimate journey into the world of one of fashion’s most iconic designers. A humble and touching exhibition shows Alexander McQueen in a new light. At this year’s Rencontres d'Arles, French photographer Ann Ray takes us on an intimate journey into the world of one of fashion’s most iconic designers. A humble and touching exhibition shows Alexander McQueen in a new light.

Carlo Mollino’s erotic Polaroids inspire Jeremy Scott for Moschino
878

Carlo Mollino’s erotic Polaroids inspire Jeremy Scott for Moschino

Photography It was only when he died that Carlo Mollino’s erotic Polaroids came to light at his villa in Turin. Countless images of half-naked anonymous women caught in lascivious poses. For his sublime fall-winter 2018/19 pre-collection, Jeremy Scott drew inspiration from these saucy pictures taken in the Italian architect, designer and photographer’s spare time. It was only when he died that Carlo Mollino’s erotic Polaroids came to light at his villa in Turin. Countless images of half-naked anonymous women caught in lascivious poses. For his sublime fall-winter 2018/19 pre-collection, Jeremy Scott drew inspiration from these saucy pictures taken in the Italian architect, designer and photographer’s spare time.

Robert Frank : The birth of a legend
876

Robert Frank : The birth of a legend

Photography Robert Frank’s celebrated portrait of his adopted homeland, the americans, turns 60 this year. To mark the book’s anniversary, les Rencontres d’Arles are organizing a major exhibition tracing Frank’s early career. Numéro art looks back at the photographer’s beginnings up to publication of the book that made his reputation, accompanying them with rare contact sheets from the cult volume. Robert Frank’s celebrated portrait of his adopted homeland, the americans, turns 60 this year. To mark the book’s anniversary, les Rencontres d’Arles are organizing a major exhibition tracing Frank’s early career. Numéro art looks back at the photographer’s beginnings up to publication of the book that made his reputation, accompanying them with rare contact sheets from the cult volume.

The exclusive fashion story of Miles Aldridge and Harland Miller for Numéro art
967

The exclusive fashion story of Miles Aldridge and Harland Miller for Numéro art

Photography To end the year on a high note, Numéro Art invited the renowed photographer Miles Alridge to reinterpret the work of artist Harland Miller. Then young phenomenon, who is close to Tracey Emin and Jarvis Cocker, became famous in the noughties for his large-format paintings inspired by paperback covers, an oeuvre of powerful, corrsive irony. To end the year on a high note, Numéro Art invited the renowed photographer Miles Alridge to reinterpret the work of artist Harland Miller. Then young phenomenon, who is close to Tracey Emin and Jarvis Cocker, became famous in the noughties for his large-format paintings inspired by paperback covers, an oeuvre of powerful, corrsive irony.