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25 17 exceptional high jewellery creations spotted at the haute couture week

17 exceptional high jewellery creations spotted at the haute couture week

Jewelry

While the haute couture week was in full swing between runway shows and presentations, luxury houses seized the opportunity to present their new high jewellery collections. Between streams of carats, showers of diamonds, tangy cocktails of gems, and ravaging designs, Numéro has selected 17 must-see high jewellery designs.

“Fouet Ombré” necklace from the “Jeux de l’ombre” collection, HERMÈS
 © Elizaveta Porodina “Fouet Ombré” necklace from the “Jeux de l’ombre” collection, HERMÈS
 © Elizaveta Porodina
“Fouet Ombré” necklace from the “Jeux de l’ombre” collection, HERMÈS
© Elizaveta Porodina

1. The necklace by Hermès

 

Designed by Pierre Hardy, Hermès artistic director of jewellery since 2001, this high jewellery collection plays on movement and contrasts by rewriting the emblematic codes of the Parisian house. As the DNA of the house, the equestrian world emerges in a beautiful necklace set with white diamonds, like a whip gently wound around the neck.

“Emerald Venus” necklace from the “Joyful Wonders” collection, BULGARI “Emerald Venus” necklace from the “Joyful Wonders” collection, BULGARI
“Emerald Venus” necklace from the “Joyful Wonders” collection, BULGARI

2. The necklace by Bulgari


Bulgari opens its realm of wonders for this new high jewellery collection, made of 140 exceptional pieces. For the first time in the Italian house’s history, over 30 creations were designed as a tribute to the powerful and emblematic emerald green color. With a vibrant intensity, the Emerald Venus necklace pays tribute to the Greek goddess of beauty Venus. At the heart of its fine branches beaded with emeralds and diamonds uncoiling around the neck stands a remarkable 20-carat Colombian emerald.

“Iwana” necklace from the “Beautés du monde” collection, CARTIER “Iwana” necklace from the “Beautés du monde” collection, CARTIER
“Iwana” necklace from the “Beautés du monde” collection, CARTIER

3. The necklace by Cartier


The animal kingdom is a great source of inspiration for Cartier, especially the panther that keeps enriching the imagination of the Parisian house since 1914. This Iwana necklace copies the epidermal movement of a green iguana and the unique way the light fondles its scales. This graphic piece is composed by a geometrical series of triangles paved with brilliant-cut diamonds. They echo the sides of three spectacular four-faceted 43.45-carat Colombian emerald.

“Comète volute” brooch from the “1932” collection, CHANEL “Comète volute” brooch from the “1932” collection, CHANEL
“Comète volute” brooch from the “1932” collection, CHANEL

4. The brooch by Chanel


Gabrielle Chanel was a pioneer in fashion, but also in jewellery. In 1932, the designer once again gave a strong proof of her audacity by taking on a new challenge – to challenge the great jewelers on their specialty by creating her own Bijoux de diamants collection, which until today is the one and only collection of high jewellery signed by Gabrielle Chanel. Entitled 1932, this new high jewellery collection revives that creative legacy. The immaculate whiteness of the diamonds elevates these exceptional pieces to the cosmos, as with this Comète Volute brooch. Its soaring lines are studded with an infinite number of exquisite and graceful round-cut diamonds, forming a ravishing five-pointed star.

“À Fleur d’Eau” convertible necklace, CHAUMET “À Fleur d’Eau” convertible necklace, CHAUMET
“À Fleur d’Eau” convertible necklace, CHAUMET

5. The necklace by Chaumet


The famous house of Chaumet founded in 1780 has always drawn its inspiration from the elements of nature. Although water plays a major role in it, this collection of high jewellery is the first one to be completely dedicated to the marine world. It is manifested in this spectacular necklace copying the movement of the waves. Included in the À Fleur d'Eau set, this exceptional piece in white gold is set with a 7.18-carat pear-cut diamond, five 2.71-carat marquise-cut diamonds, and some small marquise and brilliant-cut diamonds.

“Dior Pink” bracelet, DIOR “Dior Pink” bracelet, DIOR
“Dior Pink” bracelet, DIOR

6. The bracelet by Dior


After exploring lace with Dior Dior Dior in 2018 and textile dye effects with Tie and Dior in 2020, Victoire de Castellane, Dior artistic director of high jewellery since 1999, has turned couture into an inexhaustible source of inspiration. Checks, stripes, tie and dyes, constitute the precious patterns of the new high jewellery collection entitled Dior Print, described as an “insane throw of gems” by the artistic director herself. In a less figurative register, there is a random tangle of diamonds of different sizes mounted on a white gold bracelet.

“Talisman” necklace from the “Hortus Deliciarum” collection, GUCCI “Talisman” necklace from the “Hortus Deliciarum” collection, GUCCI
“Talisman” necklace from the “Hortus Deliciarum” collection, GUCCI

7. The necklace by Gucci


The Grand Tour, a long journey through Europe made as a rite of passage for young men in the 19th century, is the inspiration for Alessandro Michele’s new high jewellery collection for the Italian house of Gucci. Third opus of Hortus Deliciarum, the collection is made up of unique pieces enameled with romantic and maximalist jewels and designed as a creative ode to historical and architectural eras with a focus on exceptional craftsmanship. The result is a spectacular creation envisioned as a protective talisman – a 45-centimeter-long chain of white gold and diamond links adorned with a magnificent 172.4-carat hexagonal emerald, embraced by six claws in guilloché and enameled gold, and illuminated by pear-cut diamonds.

Ring from the “Dentelle de la reine Anne” set, TIFFANY & CO Ring from the “Dentelle de la reine Anne” set, TIFFANY & CO
Ring from the “Dentelle de la reine Anne” set, TIFFANY & CO

8. The ring by Tiffany & Co


For this high jewellery collection, the house of Tiffany & Co also pays tribute to the beauty of nature. Its excellent craftmanship takes shape in this reinterpretation of botanical patterns, which is inspired by the heritage of Tiffany, and especially of Jean Schlumberger’s in the 20th. Among the highlights of the collection, this impressive ring from the Dentelle de la reine Anne set stands out. The inspiration for this creation came from one of the house’s archives pieces – a hair set designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany, an American artist who made a name for himself during the Art Nouveau era. This remarkable ring is set with small white diamonds, an Asscher- cut diamond juxtaposed next to a ravishing Aquamarine.

Earrings from “La Gioia” collection, POMELLATO Earrings from “La Gioia” collection, POMELLATO
Earrings from “La Gioia” collection, POMELLATO

9. The earrings by Pomellato


After making its debut in high jewellery with a first collection entitled La Gioia [Italian for “joy”] in 2020, Pomellato presents the third opus of the line promoting optimism this year. With this pair of long earrings that alternates links paved with white and black diamonds, artistic director Vincenzo Castaldo reinterprets the house’s iconic chain bracelet.

Necklace from the ”Divine Enigma” set, MESSIKA 
Necklace from the ”Divine Enigma” set, MESSIKA
Necklace from the ”Divine Enigma” set, MESSIKA

10. The choker necklace by Messika


In this high jewellery collection, Messika explores the fascinating and mysterious world of Ancient Egypt. For the occasion, Valérie Messika, founder and artistic director of the house since 2005, has worked with incandescent yellow gold mixed with the brilliance of white diamonds. Extracted from the Divine Enigma set, this choker necklace is made up of seven rows of yellow gold, with two exceptional emerald-cut diamonds underlining the perfection of its curved lines.

Earrings from the “Chopard Loves Cinema” collection, CHOPARD Earrings from the “Chopard Loves Cinema” collection, CHOPARD
Earrings from the “Chopard Loves Cinema” collection, CHOPARD

11. The earrings by Chopard

 

Official partner of the Cannes Film Festival, Chopard presents its Red Carpet Collection every year. For the 75th edition of the event, Chopard co-president and artistic director Caroline Scheufele chose the theme Chopard Loves Cinema as an inspiration for her new collection. A theme that she unveiled in 75 jewels, including this flamboyant pair of titanium earrings, set in a rose of round-cut sapphires and amethysts, as well as some princess-cut yellow diamonds and brilliant-cut white diamonds.

Ring from the “Solstice” collection, PIAGET Ring from the “Solstice” collection, PIAGET
Ring from the “Solstice” collection, PIAGET

12. The ring by Piaget

 

Inspired by the solstice, Piaget’s new high jewellery collection blends the bright and warm lights of a sun at its zenith with the delicate shades of a summer twilight. This delicately curved white gold ring features a cushion-cut sapphire alongside some pear-cut, marquise-cut, and brilliant-cut diamonds.

Brooch from the “Chevron mystérieux et liseré mystérieux” set, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Brooch from the “Chevron mystérieux et liseré mystérieux” set, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
Brooch from the “Chevron mystérieux et liseré mystérieux” set, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

13. The brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels

 

Over the years, Van Cleef & Arpels has never ceased to pay tribute to the beauty of gems, drawing its inspiration from the fauna and flora, as well as from haute couture. In this new high jewellery collection, the house reinterprets the mythical draperies designed by Madame Grès, a great couturier and costume designer of the 1950s. For instance, this white gold brooch mimicking the elegant fall of a fabric, set with diamonds, emeralds, and sapphires, is evocative of her style.

“Radiance” necklace from the “Spirit” collection, LOUIS VUITTON “Radiance” necklace from the “Spirit” collection, LOUIS VUITTON
“Radiance” necklace from the “Spirit” collection, LOUIS VUITTON

14. The necklace by Louis Vuitton

 

The fourth high jewellery collection created by Francesca Amfitheatrof, Louis Vuitton artistic director of jewellery and watches since 2018, is a journey through mythology and its legendary creatures. The scale skin of a fabulous dragon is likely to be the inspiration for this second skin-like necklace. It is made up of yellow gold and platinum scales hemmed with diamonds, adorned at its center with a ravishing 10.99-carat mandarin garnet.

 

Earring of the “Homme Volcan” set from the “Ailleurs” collection, BOUCHERON Earring of the “Homme Volcan” set from the “Ailleurs” collection, BOUCHERON
Earring of the “Homme Volcan” set from the “Ailleurs” collection, BOUCHERON

15. The earring by Boucheron

 

Claire Choisne, Boucheron creative director since 2011, expends her imagination to a limitless somewhere else for this new high jewellery collection. Deeply poetic and rooted in the telluric forces of nature, her five main themes are the sand woman, the leaf woman, the earth woman, the pebble woman, and the volcano man. In each of them, the Parisian house founded in 1858 pushes the limits of its creativity, especially with this tentacular octopus earring in a mother-of-pearl version paved with diamonds on white gold.

 

Earrings of the “Optical Wonder” set from “The Alchemist of Light” collection, DE BEERS Earrings of the “Optical Wonder” set from “The Alchemist of Light” collection, DE BEERS
Earrings of the “Optical Wonder” set from “The Alchemist of Light” collection, DE BEERS

16. The earrings by De Beers

 

After the first chapter of its high jewellery collection The Alchemist of Light unveiled last January, De Beers opens the second chapter drawing a parallel with the previous one with a variation of light coming out of exceptional gems. Five new creations embody this theme, such as the Optical Wonder set, which is made of seven different pieces drawing their inspiration from geometrical patterns. Artist Victor Vasarely explores the optical illusions it creates. From this research comes out a pair of earrings uniting polish and raw yellow diamonds with black aluminum twirling around a pear-cut diamond.

“Flavus” necklace from the “Fendi Flavus” collection, FENDI “Flavus” necklace from the “Fendi Flavus” collection, FENDI
“Flavus” necklace from the “Fendi Flavus” collection, FENDI

17. The necklace by Fendi

 

As an ode to its Roman roots, the house of Fendi revealed its very first high jewelry collection. Designed by the artistic director of jewellery Delfina Delettrez Fendi, the Fendi Flavus set combines the organic element of the gems with a touch of sculptural glamour inspired by the mid-20th century all in a necklace. Designed as a precious shower of white diamonds, the necklace emphasizes the FF monogram made of yellow baguette-cut diamonds created by Karl Lagerfeld in 1965.