Courtesy of Jacquemus
A few months ago, Simon Porte Jacquemus and his partner Marco Maestri, the director of a Parisian digital agency, announced their engagement. This season, bridal imagery is the leitmotif for his Fall-Winter 2022-2023 collection. After Hawaii earlier this year, the show took place in a lunar landscape between the pink lakes of Salin-de-Giraud and the Camargue dazzling desert mountains of white salt. Poetic as always, the collection titled “Le Papier” tackles the chromatic fundamentals and a desire to revive the original codes of the house that have become the Provence-born designer’s signature. As the show began, silhouettes emerged from a far distance and walked in a long sublime procession, displaying exquisite pure looks in a sober palette mainly composed of bright white, off-white, warm brown, and deep black colors. The artistic director, who unveiled his collaboration with the label Nike last May, both reinvents feminine and masculine sensuality. On the edge of nudity, see-through white dresses held together by straps reveal the chest, while brown suits are worn with a light veil undulating over the face or simply reveal a bare shoulder. This collection puts an emphasis on oversized volumes created by white tulles on the side of a skirt, fitted dresses with original cuts, and thick fur coats.