24 August

Fashion sketches, crazy nights and cult photos, discover the legendary Antonio Lopez

 

Fashion illustrator, photographer and night owl, the legendary Antonio Lopez was the perfect embodiment of seventies pop. Now a new documentary by American director James Crump looks back at the fascinating life of this sparkling character and his merry band of artists and model friends.

By Alexis Thibault

Pat Cleveland and Donna Jordan, Paris. 1970.
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Antonio Lopez, Paris, 1973.
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Bill Cunningham et Antonio Lopez, New York City, 1978.
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Karl Lagerfeld, Saint-Tropez, 1970.
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Tina Chow, 1971.
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Antonio et Nancy North au Café Bonaparte, Paris, 1972.
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Juan Ramos, Paris,1972.
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Antonio Lopez, Jardin du Luxembourg, Paris, 1971.
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Antonio Lopez, Pat Cleveland and Karl Lagerfeld, Paris, 1970.
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Antonio Lopez, Corey Tippin et Donna Jordan, Saint-Tropez, 1970
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Donna Jordan, 1973.
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Maison de Bonneterie campaign, Amsterdam, 1972
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Artwork for Brigitte Bardot Interview magazine cover, April 1975.
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Campaign for Hudson Stocking, Germany, late 1960s.
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Jerry Hall, Maison de Bonneterie campaign, Amsterdam, 1972.
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Pat Cleveland et Billie Blair, Interview magazine, 1973.
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Paloma Picasso British Vogue, 1972.
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Japanese magazine (Patti D’Arbanville), early 1970s.
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French Vogue, designs by Karl Lagerfeld, 1972
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Antonio’s hybrid of 1920s fashion with a 1970s attitude revolutionized the fashion industry.
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Japanese magazine, early 1970s.
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Antonio Lopez, Paris, 1970.
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Corey Tippin, Donna Jordan and Antonio Lopez, Saint-Tropez, 1973.
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Carol LaBrie, for Italian Vogue, 1971.
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Antonio Lopez, Coraly Betancourt and Alex de IIanos, Club Sept, Paris, 1973.
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Donna Jordan, for 20 Ans, 1970.
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Eija Vehka Ajo, Juan Ramos, Jacques de Bascher, Karl Lagerfeld and Antonio Lopez, Paris, 1973.
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Loulou de la Falaise, Paris, 1977.
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French Vogue, designs by Karl Lagerfeld, 1972.
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Jerry Hall and Antonio Lopez, Paris, 1972.
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Jerry Hall, 1974.
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Juan Ramos at the Carnegie Hall studio, New York City, 1969.
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Jessica Lange, Paris, 1974.
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Grace Jones (Candy Bar Girls series), 1977. Photographie par Antonio Lopez. © Copyright The Estate d’Antonio Lopez et Juan Ramos, 2012. Extrait d’Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco réalisé par James Crump.
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Grace Jones (from Black and White Shower series), Paris, 1975.
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Jane Forth and Antonio Lopez, Carnegie Hall studios, New York, 1970.
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Juan Ramos and Karl Lagerfeld, Saint-Tropez, 1973 .
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Karl Lagerfeld, Paris, 1970.
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Pat Cleveland, Studio 54 Fashion Show, circa 1978
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Tina Chow, London, 1975.
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French Vogue, 1970.
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L’Uomo Vogue, 1970.
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L’Uomo Vogue, 1970.
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Soen, Japan, 1968.
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Corey Tippin, Donna Jordan, Jane Forth and Jay Johnson, Paris, 1971. © Copyright The Estate of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos, 2012. From Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco directed by James Crump.
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Pat  Cleveland  and  Donna  Jordan,  Paris. 1970.
 Antonio  Lopez,  Paris,  1973.
 Bill Cunningham et  Antonio  Lopez,  New  York  City,  1978.
Karl Lagerfeld,  Saint-Tropez, 1970.
 Tina  Chow,  1971.
Antonio et Nancy North au Café Bonaparte,  Paris,  1972.
Juan  Ramos,  Paris,1972.
 Antonio  Lopez,  Jardin  du  Luxembourg,  Paris,  1971.
Antonio  Lopez,  Pat  Cleveland  and  Karl  Lagerfeld,  Paris,  1970.
Antonio  Lopez,  Corey  Tippin  et  Donna  Jordan,  Saint-Tropez,  1970
Donna  Jordan,  1973.
Maison  de  Bonneterie  campaign,  Amsterdam,  1972
Artwork  for  Brigitte  Bardot  Interview  magazine  cover,  April  1975.
  Campaign  for  Hudson  Stocking,  Germany,  late  1960s.
Jerry  Hall,  Maison  de  Bonneterie  campaign,  Amsterdam,  1972.
Pat Cleveland et Billie Blair, Interview magazine, 1973.
Paloma  Picasso  British  Vogue,  1972.
Japanese  magazine  (Patti  D’Arbanville),  early  1970s.
French  Vogue,  designs  by  Karl  Lagerfeld,  1972
Antonio’s  hybrid  of  1920s  fashion  with  a  1970s  attitude  revolutionized  the  fashion  industry.
Japanese  magazine,  early  1970s.
Antonio  Lopez,  Paris,  1970.
 Corey  Tippin,  Donna  Jordan  and  Antonio  Lopez,  Saint-Tropez,  1973.
 Carol  LaBrie,  for  Italian  Vogue,  1971.
Antonio  Lopez,  Coraly  Betancourt  and  Alex  de  IIanos,  Club  Sept,  Paris,  1973.
Donna  Jordan,  for  20  Ans,  1970.
Eija  Vehka  Ajo,  Juan  Ramos,  Jacques  de  Bascher,  Karl  Lagerfeld  and  Antonio  Lopez,  Paris,  1973.
Loulou  de  la  Falaise,  Paris,  1977.
French  Vogue,  designs  by  Karl  Lagerfeld,  1972.
Jerry  Hall  and  Antonio  Lopez,  Paris,  1972.
Jerry  Hall,  1974.
 Juan  Ramos  at  the  Carnegie  Hall  studio,  New  York  City,  1969.
Jessica  Lange,  Paris,  1974.
Grace Jones (Candy Bar Girls series), 1977.  Photographie par Antonio Lopez. © Copyright The Estate d’Antonio Lopez et Juan Ramos, 2012. Extrait d’Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco réalisé par James Crump.
Grace  Jones  (from  Black  and  White  Shower  series),  Paris,  1975.
Jane  Forth  and  Antonio  Lopez,  Carnegie  Hall  studios,  New  York,  1970.
Juan  Ramos  and  Karl  Lagerfeld,  Saint-Tropez,  1973  .
 Karl  Lagerfeld,  Paris,  1970.
Pat  Cleveland,  Studio  54  Fashion  Show,  circa  1978
Tina  Chow,  London,  1975.
French  Vogue,  1970.
  L’Uomo  Vogue,  1970.
 L’Uomo  Vogue,  1970.
Soen,  Japan,  1968.
Corey  Tippin,  Donna  Jordan,  Jane  Forth  and  Jay  Johnson,  Paris,  1971.  ©  Copyright  The  Estate  of  Antonio  Lopez  and  Juan  Ramos,  2012.  From  Antonio  Lopez  1970:  Sex  Fashion  &  Disco  directed  by  James  Crump.

According to legend, Antonio Lopez drew his first dress at the age of two. And it probably didn’t look like the typical doodle of an everyday kid. Born on the island of Puerto Rico to a father who sculpted Stockman mannequins and a couturier mother, Antonio Lopez was rocked to sleep amidst swathes of fabrics, prints and the hum of sewing machines. In the 1950s his family moved to New York where the Spanish neighbourhood of East Harlem became his new kingdom. With his curly brown hair, moustache and cigarette holder, music was in the blood of this well turned out dandy and extraordinary dancer. After leaving the Fashion Institute of Technology, he’d sketch out the watercolour lines of his models for Women’s Wear Daily, Interview and Vogue to the sounds of Nile Rodgers’ guitar licks. Later on, he’d start photography, his Instamatic always to hand. 

 

 

Antonio Lopez made striking sketches of top models giving the fashion world a new feminine ideal: an elegant glittering woman, rebellious and ultra-sexy, just like his radiant “Antonio girls” who reigned over the covers of glossy magazines like they would over Instagram today.  

 

 

Antonio Lopez drew like he breathed, and every exhalation produced another curve. Just occasionally his “black days” prevented him from initiating his artistic trance. As the seventies dawned, the prolific aesthete was 27 years old. At the time it was all about romantic dresses, fringed jackets, flared trousers and ethnic prints. In this dynamic era, hippie met punk, Karl Lagerfeld was making waves in Paris, Kenzo introduced colour and designers were showing female forms in the nude. In the illustrations of performer Antonio Lopez, kitsch, derision and brilliance came crashing together. Drunk on pop art, Egon Schiele’s expressionism, Joan Miro’s surrealism and masterpieces from Art Nouveau, Antonio Lopez produced striking sketches of top models. Compared to René Bouché (1905-1963), the last rebel in illustration caught a monumental sensuality and introduced a new feminine ideal into fashion: an elegant glittering woman, rebellious and ultra-sexy.

Donna Jordan and Antonio Lopez, Café de Flore, Paris, 1973.

 

With his gang of night owls and his vast address book, Antonio Lopez went from club to club, from Studio 54 in New York to Le Sept in Paris, in the company of Jessica Lange, Charles James, Donna Jordan, Grace Jones... The “Antonio corner” was soon serious competition to Warhol’s “Andy corner”. In reality he took advantage of an era when models were becoming front line celebrities in their own right. And the bisexual playboy – in a couple with his collaborator Juan Ramos from 1965 to 1970 – enthralled his incandescent and resolutely disco “Antonio girls” who reigned over the magazine covers like they would Instagram today. According to artist Paul Caranicas, Antonio Lopez revolutionised fashion by choosing “race, ethnicity and sexuality as the foundations of his art”. The Puerto Rican mixed influences, left America for Paris and drew the things that he loved best whatever they were, creating a whimsical and fantastical aesthetic hybridisation. 

 

 

Antonio Lopez continues to nourish the campaigns of Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent today. He spurred on a multi-ethnic vision of fashion, marked by his childhood spent in the Bronx.

 

 

A vibrant tribute, James Crump’s new documentary is a sort of extended slide show commented on by the close friends of the illustrator who died of Kaposi's sarcoma in 1987. Shown at the London Film Festival last year, the American director’s project succeeds Troublemakers: The Story of Land Art (2015) and his interest in Robert Mapplethorpe and Patti Smith in Black White + Gray (2007). Antonio Lopez continues to nourish the campaigns of Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent today. He spurred on a multi-ethnic vision of fashion, marked by his childhood spent in the Bronx. But there’s also a melancholic air to the documentary. A grief close to abating, particularly when Crump suggests that the ambient racism at Vogue helped push Lopez towards the exit. A cruel world that survives on ink, polaroid and the most beautiful of descriptions: “It was just Antonio.”

 

Antonio Lopez 70: Sex, Fashion & Disco de James Crump. Coming soon.

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